I ate the best gelato ever. Pistachio flavour. It was soft and creamy and delightful, and there were a few chunks of pistachio nuts in it, and melted chocolate (čokolada) at the bottom of the cone, that I wasn’t expecting. I’ve been doing a side quest on pistachio gelato – and there is a range of quality. Second best was from Vis, third best was from Jelsa. Then there were a bunch of ice cream places here and there trying to pretend they sell gelato. Nope. But the best was from Gelateria Emiliana in Split – the original store., not the fake one. Yes, there is a story here – apparently the original Emiliana were forced to move locations, and someone else moved in to their old spot and used the same name ….so as to steal business from the original’s great reputation. I found the original – and it was worth it (and priced the same as the rest). It was so good that any ice cream in my future will surely be disappointing.
Croatia is somewhat similar. It has set a high bar for European holidays now. I have been warm for 2.5 weeks (people who know me, know this is important!), and I even have a slight tan (off-white…). I have left all my long sleeves and long pants in my suitcase and swum everyday. Deep history, beautiful views, welcoming people, and delicious food. I may have been Mediterranean in a past life. Big HVALA (thanks) to Andy for prompting this opportunity 🙂
I have one night here in Split again before I fly homewards. We drove down the coast and through tunnels under mountains – Croatia has amazing roading infrastructure – epic bridges and viaducts, and they do not go round mountains, they go through them. One tunnel this morning was about 3.8 km long, and speed limit on the excellent motorways is 130kph.
It is great to be already oriented in the Split old town and I have wandered around and up and down most of the roads this afternoon and evening. I tried to get lost and go down new alleyways – only to find myself standing outside my accomodation a few minutes later! People watching, a spot of shopping, a few more photos.
I went into the St Domnius Cathedral and stuck my head in the Treasury – which is actually just filled with treasures: statues and religious artefacts and relics (not the financial wealth of the city). The Cathedral was wild – intricate carvings and over the top in everything. And the Bell Tower had amazing views – and was not so windy as the one in Korčula, though they are about the same height (60m up some crazy narrow polished steps, followed by modern steel stairs).
I’ve missed Matthew, Lily and Luca and want to bring them back to show them All The Things, but I’m very glad I did this (semi) solo venture. I’m rested and inspired and grateful. This is reconnaissance for future adventures! But now I’m off to re-pack my bag before the journey home begins tomorrow…..